Atacama Desert, Chile

Atacama Desert

After 3 incredible weeks in Bolivia, we moved on to our next adventure. Our trip to Chile was unusual. When we got on the bus in Uyuni, Bolivia, all seats were taken and many people were standing up on the aisle. The bus was jam-packed  and this was a trip for at least 8 hours. We have heard many stories about drunk drivers and wanted to make sure that our driver was not intoxicated. After talking to him for a couple of minutes, we were convinced that he was OK.

The challenging journey started at 4 am in the morning. The air-conditioning wasn’t working properly and there wasn’t enough oxygen for a bus full of people. We weren't able to open the windows either. At one stage, I noticed passengers sleeping on the aisles. It was something I never witnessed in my life.

Streets of San Pedro de Atacama

We reached the Bolivian border in the early morning. After getting our exit stamps, we were driven to an area between Bolivia and Chile. A no man’s land! We had to get off the bus and wait for another bus from Chile. It took more than an hour for the bus to arrive and we were already feeling agitated. The treatment at the Chilean border was a nightmare. Everybody had to get off the bus with their luggage and go through customs. There weren’t any X-ray machines, so they had to search each luggage by hand, which of course lasted more than an hour. This wouldn’t be too much of a problem if there was only one bus. Unfortunately, there were 3 or 4 buses waiting in front of us already. It was a total disaster and we wasted 3 hours to cross the border. 

Incredible Landscapes of Atacama Desert

We arrived in Calama on the 8^th of December 2013. It didn’t look like an interesting city, so we took a bus straight to San Pedro de Atacama. It is a small village mainly set up for the visitors of the Atacama Desert. Although it is touristy, we really liked the relaxed vibes in this unique place. 

We hadn’t reserved accommodation in Chile as we weren’t quite sure if we would stay in Calama. While walking around looking for a place to stay, we met a nice Spanish lady who advised us to stay at Hotel Quechua. It is a peaceful hotel with a shady environment. We had our own bungalow made of wood and were quite happy to be able to relax after a long 15 hour journey.

A crater lake

On our second day, we walked around in this relaxed town and organised 2 sightseeing tours for the following days. There are many agencies to investigate. After talking to a couple of people we booked our tours with a company called Corvatsch. 

The Salt Flats

The first tour was to the famous lake Cejar. It is about an hour drive from the town. With a salt percentage of 40%, Lake Cejar offers a unique experience where you can float effortlessly on the surface. It was a remarkable experience to float in the cold waters of this salty lake which is located in the middle of the Atacama Desert. After a 20 minute float, we witnessed the beauty of two other nearby lakes, one of them being a crater caused by a meteorite. It was surreal to see these lakes in one of the driest places on Earth.

The Valley of the Dead

The following day, we did a tour of the Valle de la Muerte (Valley of the Dead) and Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). We saw sand dunes, canyons, and incredible rock formations. We also had an excellent tour guide who provided invaluable information about the history of these places. I would highly recommend attending this tour if you are visiting the Atacama Desert.  

Valley of the Moon

After four days in San Pedro de Atacama, it was time for us to move on. If you are intending to visit Chile, you need to know that it is one of the most expensive countries in South America. The prices are similar to Europe. Therefore, we could afford to stay only four days. It was a shame that we weren’t able to discover more of Chile. At the same time, we were thrilled to explore one of the most intriguing countries in South America, Argentina!

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

On the 3^rd of December 2013, we left Potosi behind and caught a 10 hour bus to Tupiza. We arrived our destination at 4am in the morning and checked into a hotel to get a couple of hours of sleep before starting our 4 day tour of Salar de Uyuni (Uyuni Salt flats). It wasn’t the best idea to start the tour with only 3 hours of sleep but we managed quite well to stay awake and witness incredible beauties of Bolivia.

Incredible Landscapes

We booked a 4 day tour starting from Tupiza ending in Uyuni with the Tupiza Tours. Many companies offer similar tours to the salt flats but it is important to pick a reputable one for safety issues. There have been some incidents caused by drunk drivers and we were told that 2 tourists died in an accident in September. I would highly recommend the Tupiza Tours if you are in doubt.

We loaded our gear into a 4x4 jeep driven by our friendly driver Fernando. We were a group of 8, Luka, Agathe, Bastien, Cecile from France, Mirren from England, Ria from the Netherlands, Alex and I. The first day we drove around 200 kilometres and witnessed some incredible scenery. Our cook, Gladis, managed to prepare some amazing meals in the middle of the desert. We were very happy with the tasty food and friendly service of our guides. At night, we stayed in a little refuge. The accommodation was basic (4 people in one room), and it served its purpose of having a good night sleep to recharge for the next day of adventures.

Alex at Laguna Colorada

On our second day, we discovered some amazing coloured lakes. We first visited the Lake Colorado which was red due to plankton. Hundreds of pink flamingos welcomed us. It was amazing to see the wildlife and incredible natural beauties. After leaving pink flamingos behind, we swam in a small natural hot spring pool in the middle of the desert. It was very relaxing and was exactly what we needed to get over the long drive. Our next stop was Laguna Verde which was a green lake due to arsenic in the water. Its colour was just amazing. We had lunch near the Laguna Verde and continued our adventure by visiting some geysers. After witnessing more sublime landscapes from our jeep, we arrived at the next camp site. Nights were fun. We had good food and great company. Our group bonded very well and felt like a family. 

Laguna Verde (Green Lake)

On the third day, we drove through some astonishing deserts. One of them was called the Desert of Dali, where we saw some extraordinary rock formations in the middle of the sand dunes. It was unbelievable to witness these massive rock carved in various shapes. The whole experience was out of this world. At some point, it felt like we were travelling on planet Mars. 

Rock formations at the Desert of Dali

That night, we checked into a guest house made of salt. It was a whole different sensation to be in a place made of pure salt. After dinner and some card games, we went to bed to prepare for the early departure to the salt flats to watch the sunrise.

The last day started very early. We were on the road to Salar de Uyuni at 5am. When we reached the biggest salt flats on Earth, we were joyful and impressed with its gigantic size. It felt like a white ocean. There was no beginning or end. The sun started to rise slowly and we observed some of the most beautiful colours on this planet. It was a true spectacle of light. A fun thing to do in the salt flats is to take surreal pictures by using the effects of perspective. It was hilarious to take some absurd group pictures with the help of our experienced drives, David and Fernando.

David preparing lunch

We had our last lunch with the group in a small town close to Uyuni. It was emotional. We collected some money and wrote a card to our crew to show our appreciation. They created a safe, friendly and enjoyable atmosphere for all of us and I really thank them from the bottom of my heart. After lunch, we drove to Uyuni and said goodbye to Fernando, David and Gladis. They were the best and it made a big difference to the tour.

Uyuni Salt Flats

We checked into a small hotel as we were not sure how to organise our trip to the Atacama Desert in Chile. Most of our group was leaving to La Paz in the evening. We didn’t really like the vibes in Uyuni. The people were very different than the rest of the Bolivians and they weren’t welcoming. So, we decided to leave as soon as possible. We managed to get our bus tickets to Calama in Chile for a 4am departure. 

After dinner, we said goodbye to our fellow travellers who were catching a bus back to La Paz. We knew that we would meet some of them again somewhere in South America but it was hard to say goodbye after sharing great moments of awe, friendship, and fun. One of the best parts of travelling is surely the people we meet along the way. Each one of them touches our hearts in some way and I really appreciate to get to know some incredible people on this journey.   

A big thank you to our travel family

"The Devil's Miner", Potosi, Bolivia

City of Potosi

This post is dedicated to the 301 miners who lost their lives on the 13th of May 2014 in an explosion at a coal mine in Soma, Turkey.

Our next stop in Bolivia was Potosi, which is a small mining town with beautiful colonial architecture. It used to be one of the wealthiest cities in South America in the past due to the extraction of silver. The mines still operate today, however we were told the productivity is much lower, and the quality of life has dropped substantially. 

A unique experience in Potosi is the tour of the mines which are still in operation. There are many companies that offer similar tours that take tourists into the mines during the hours of operation where you can witness the tragic conditions of these brave people who risk their lives on daily basis to make a living for themselves and their families. Make sure to go a reputable company, as it can be a dangerous visit. I booked a tour from our hostel called Eucalyptus Hostel and it was a safe option.

Mines of Potosi

At the beginning of the tour, we received our overalls, boots, helmets and headlights. There were five of us, Jana and Jacob from Germany, Charlotte from Australia, George from New Zealand and myself. The tour started with a visit to a small miners shop where we bought gifts for the miners such as water, cold drinks and coca leaves. You can also buy dynamite or pure alcohol for them which we declined due to safety concerns. 

Our second stop was a plant where extracted precious metals are processed. We were told about the process of extraction and the operational guidelines. After an hour, we arrived at our final destination - the mine site. All of us were excited and anxious at the same time. 

We slowly followed our guide into one of the tunnels with extreme caution. After a couple of minutes, there was nothing but darkness. The further we went in, the warmer and dustier it got. We certainly needed a protective mask as the dust was unbearable. It became very hard to breath. Unfortunately, many miners die at a young age from silicosis because of the build up dust in their lungs. The life expectancy for the Potosi miners is between 40 to 55 years old. Safety measures in the tunnels didn't seem to be good. It was quite a shock to see the working conditions of more than 15,000 miners including 800 children.  It was a heart breaking experience and it is certainly one of the hardest jobs I could ever imagine.

Miners at work

After spending 2 hours inside the mine, I was very grateful to be able to see the sun and breathe in the fresh air. I was lucky because I didn’t need to return to the mines, but for many others this is not an option, as they need to look after their families.     

The tour of the mines was a bonding experience for the group and we decided to get together that night to watch the documentary “The Devil’s Miner” which is based on a true story of a child miner in Potosi. It is truly a tragic movie, especially after witnessing the terrible working conditions in those mines. After the movie and my visit to the mines, all I could think of was gratitude for my life, my work, and family. Unfortunately, it sometimes takes to see the hard work and suffering of others to put things in perspective. 

After an intense day in the mines, we decided to check out "El Ojo del Inca" the next morning, which is a hot spring lagoon, with temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius, surrounded by amazing mountains and beautiful colours. It is located at 25 kilometres outside of Potosi and is easily accessible by public buses. We spent a relaxing afternoon swimming in this surreal and warm lake. 

El Ojo del Inca

After 3 nights in Potosi, we took a 4 hour bus to Sucre which is the capital of Bolivia. It is a white colonial city with tranquil and relaxed vibes. We checked into Hostel Pachamama, which had a beautiful garden and was reasonably priced.

City of Sucre

Our peace got disturbed by some issues caused by the Commonwealth Bank of Australia (CBA). Before we started our trip, Alex signed up for a travel money card with them, which sounded like a good idea, as they promised to charge low ATM fees for oversees withdrawals. What we didn’t know was that they would hit us with absurd exchange rates. We became aware of this when we converted a large sum of Australian dollars into US dollars. There was $600 difference between what we should have received and what was in our account. Their help desk created more problems than helping us solve the issue. We had to call them multiple times to get our money back. It was a hassle no one needs while on the road in a foreign country. I know that most banks can be manipulative in some ways but please NEVER sign up for the Travel Money Card with CBA. It was just a nightmare. After a week of arguments, they stated that they haven't done anything wrong but offered $300 compensation purely "out of their goodwill". Well, they haven't done anything wrong apart ripping off $300 from us. We accepted the money as we did not want to deal with them any longer and ruin our travels.

Cemetery of Sucre

Apart from the bank issues, we were happy to visit the beautiful city of Sucre. They have amazing churches and spectacular old colonial buildings. One of the most interesting sites we visited was the cemetery of Sucre which was one of the most peaceful burial grounds I have ever seen. It was well maintained with lots of flowers and trees. Definitely a must see in Sucre. 

The next episode will cover the incredible Salar de Uyuni tour, the biggest salt flats on Earth. Stay tuned! 

The Land of Surprises: Bolivia

After an enlightening shamanic retreat in the jungles of Peru, we flew back to Lima from Iquitos on the 17^th of November 2013 and took an overnight bus to Arequipa which lasted 16 hours. Then another bus journey of 6 hours to get to Puno. We spent around 35 hours on the road and were at the point of exhaustion when we arrived our hostel (Marlon’s House) in Puno. It was such a pleasure to sleep in a comfortable bed again after a warm shower. 

The next morning, we organised our bus tickets to Copacabana which is a small town on the Bolivian side of the Lake Titicaca. The whole trip from Lima to Copacabana cost us around $50, which was a great deal! Bus is the most economical option to use when travelling in South America. After an hour on the bus, we stopped at the border crossing, got our exit stamps from Peruvian immigration, and then walked for 30 metres into a smaller immigration office on the Bolivian side. Super easy!

The view form our room at Hotel Mirador

After a short trip, the bus driver dropped us off in front of a hotel next to the lake Titicaca and mentioned that we could get a room for $7 per person including breakfast. Obviously, we wanted to check the rooms first. To our surprise, private rooms with a great lake view were waiting for us. We booked in for a couple of nights at the Hotel Mirador.

Bolivia is an extremely cheap country compared to Peru. Unfortunately, during our first night in Copacabana, I started to feel tired and weak. Later on, I started to experience chest pain and diarrhea. It could be the altitude sickness, fatigue, the food in Copacabana or a combination of all. Whatever caused it, I suffered for the next 4 days with it.

Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun)

The next morning, I could barely leave the room due to fatigue. Alex brought in some food for me but I wasn’t able to eat much. This continued for the next couple of days. Copacabana was a good place to get sick though due to its peaceful and relaxing nature. There are many nice cafes and restaurants where you can try local dishes. However, extreme caution is required with restaurant and food selection, as we met so many people who got very sick in there. One of them even ended up in a hospital for a couple of days. 

During our time when I wasn't sick, we did a day trip to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca which is the biggest island on the lake. It was nice to see something else than the hotel room or the toilet.

After 5 days in Copacabana, we were relatively fit enough to travel again. We caught a bus to La Paz and hoped that we didn’t have to go to the toilet for the next 3 hours. We witnessed some mesmerising scenery along the way.

La Paz is one of the highest cities on Earth. When we got there, it was Alex’s turn to fight the battle of diarrhea. Thankfully we stayed in a nice hostel with a clean bathroom.

Last day of school

Our second day started with a visit to a dermatologist as Alex developed some kind of eczema in her leg during our jungle trip in Peru and it was getting worse. The dermatologist was a great guy and she got all the help she needed to heal. Apparently, it was the last day of school when we were in La Paz, and we witnessed young students chasing and throwing flour and water to each other. It was funny to watch and it brought back memories from my school days.  

I felt content, peaceful and happy in La Paz. It is nice city to visit. The people are friendly and welcoming. Unfortunately, we had to move on to the next city, Potosi, as we had limited time due to a already booked tour of Salar de Uyuni and needed to be in Tupiza within the next couple of days.

Plaza de Armas

A journey of the Soul - Shamanic Retreat in Amazon

Welcome to the Amazon Jungle!

We flew from Lima to Iquitos on the 5^th of November 2013. A warm and tropical weather welcomed us which was a sudden change after 2 months in the cool Andean Mountains. Iquitos is the largest city in the Peruvian rainforest and it reminded me of Thailand with its rickshaws and humid weather. Upon checking into a small hostel, and a great ceviche for lunch, we visited a local market with many different indigenous plant medicines and herbs.

Streets of Iquitos

The main reason of our trip to this city was to attend a 9 day shamanic retreat in the Amazon Jungle. Shamanic tourism is already very popular in Peru with many organisations promising different experiences, hence it is highly recommended to do a thorough research before booking a retreat. Unfortunately, there are many shamans who are in the game just for the money and you may end up paying a couple of thousand dollars for a bad experience.

Local Market

We decided to do our spiritual journey with “LaFamilia Medicina”. We actually found out about this organisation through a Portuguese traveller whom we met in Arequipa. He has been to one of their retreats and spoke positively about his experiences. It is also a donation based model which made it financially easier for us. I recently found out that the founder of La Familia Medicina, Zack, has left Peru, so I am not sure about the current situation of this establishment.

After spending two days in Iquitos, we and 11 other soul searchers left for an unknown journey in the early morning of November 7^th. We took a bus to a remote village where we caught a speed boat deep into the Amazon Jungle. The boat did not feel safe, but it brought us to our destination after 2 hours. We were greeted by our host Zack who is the founder of La Familia Medicina. He brought us to the local police office for registration. Then, we took another boat to the camp site. When we arrived, we were welcomed by our warm-hearted Peruvian family who has been living in the Amazon jungle for generations. They provided all we needed and cared for us during our stay. 

La Familia Medicina (Picture by Martin Larrivee)

The centre does not have electricity or phone coverage and only source of water is from the magnificent Amazon River. However, we were provided bottled water for drinking.

I am not going to write about Ayahuasca specifically as there are so many people who have a lot more experience than I have. If you are interested to find out more, I would suggest you to watch the documentary “DMT the Spirit Molecule” and read an interesting article by Kira Salak of National Geographic, who beautifully wrote about her experiences with this sacred wine which has been an integral part of the Amazon culture to connect with the higher level of consciousness. 

In this article, I will reflect upon my personal journey within these extraordinary nine days. This is a very unique journey of the soul and everyone in the group had totally different experiences. One of the participants, Martin Larrivee, actually made an amazing documentary about his journey and insights which you can watch on Youtube. I would also advise not to expect anything and to keep an open mind, if you decide to try this sacred brew one day.

On our first day, we started the “Shamanic Dieta” which is a very strict diet without salt, sugar, spices, alcohol, and red meat. We also had to observe complete celibacy during the retreat. As part of the program, we drank a medicinal tree bark tea for 4 days for cleansing. The food was prepared for us, so there was no need to worry about breaking the diet.

The retreat facilities (Picture by Martin Larrivee)

The main reason behind my participation in this retreat was to find my purpose in life and I was hoping for clear answers and guidance from the universe.

The first ceremony started at 7 pm on the second day. I felt excited and scared. Everybody gathered in the ceremony room and the main shaman, Gumercindo, started to chant icaros which are traditional shamic songs for guiding the spirit. Then one by one, all of us drank a cup of this bitter brew. After candles were blown off, the journey of the spirits started slowly while the family kept chanting different icaros throughout the ceremony.

My first night was peaceful. I felt being melted into the music and singing and saw my soul sitting by a camp-fire with some indigenous elders. Then, I started to throw up which is very common upon drinking Ayahuasca. When I asked what I was throwing up, the answer was "shame"! Ayahuasca actually cleans blockages in the body which can feel quite harsh at times. I felt a deep connection with God/universe and my higher self and received clear messages about my purpose being a psychotherapist and healing people. The ceremony lasted for about 6 hours and I was feeling grateful at the end of it. 

Alex being treated by our Peruvian mother (Picture by Martin Larrivee)

Each morning after the ceremony, there was a feedback session where we talked about our experiences and asked questions to the shaman to the uncertain clarify parts of the journey. It was very helpful to reflect back on these sessions and listen to other peoples’ stories.

The second ceremony was potent and intense for me. I experienced hatred coming up from deep inside. It was evil, nasty and felt poisonous. I vomited a lot and sensed a big release. It is amazing how much mental junk we carry inside of our body and how it affects us. I also had distressing memories from my childhood. I was able to see that my belief about “I cannot do it alone” started at that time period. I received clear messages stating that my life was not about me. It was about how I help others in a meaningful way.

Sunset before the ceremony (Picture by Martin Larrivee)

The third ceremony was a nightmare. It started with very vivid colours and patterns and became more intense with each passing minute. Actually, the concept of time loses its meaning during these ceremonies and minutes can feel like months. I had a vision of an extremely complex and busy highway of energy moving around and going through me. I couldn't move my body and was terrified with the thought that I was paralysed. I was certainly pushed to my limits and I wasn’t able to surrender because of the fear of losing control. That night, I contemplated on not continuing with the retreat.

I didn’t attend the next ceremony, because I was physically and mentally exhausted. Cleansing process combined with a strict diet can be very strenuous. I sat in the ceremony room but didn’t drink the brew. It was a good decision as I felt more relaxed, confident and trusting.

I decided to participate in the next ceremony to get over my fears. It was exactly what I needed to regain my confidence. I threw up and sweated a lot. I saw myself trying to imitate other people and was told to be myself with the message that I am gifted in ways that I don’t realise. Later on, I felt bliss and love of the universe. I had a vision of guiding my grandmother to cross over to the other side. At the time, I thought that was just a vision. However, after the retreat, I found out that my grandmother indeed passed away on the same night when I had the vision.Finding about my grandmother's death was a profound and emotional experience with lots of sadness and tears. May your soul have peace dear grandmother, I love you!

(Picture by Martin Larrivee)

The last session was a lot of physical cleansing until the morning. I witnessed the tension, anxiety and worry about the future which creates nothing but stress in my life. In my visions, I was told to relax and be more trusting to the flow of life.

After 9 days of intense soul journey, I was ready to leave the jungle and face the world with more strength, compassion, love and insights. I was happy to let go of some of my shame, guilt, fear, pride, anxiety and judgements. A feeling of bliss came over me and I was FREE of my heavy burdens!

The death of my grandmother reminded me of our limited time on this beautiful planet. May all of us live our lives to the fullest and find meaning and purpose we search for. Life is too short to have regrets. Learn from your mistakes and move on to new horizons. Don't let your fears hold you back!     

(Picture by Martin Larrivee)

The Incredible Inca Trail

We arrived to Cuzco at 4 am in the morning and took a taxi to a bed & breakfast booked through Airbnb. To our surprise and disgust, it was a horrible, run down place. The room stung but we had no other option to sleep there till the morning. 

After a couple of hours of sleep, we started to walk around to find a better place to stay. Just down the road, we encountered a small hostel called EcoInca. Upon cancelling our booking through Airbnb, we ran out of that dingy establishment and moved to our new room. It felt so good! 

Cuzco is a very touristy town, and there are a lot of accommodation options. Do a good research before you book a place to avoid nightmares!

Cuzco, Unesco World Heritage listed city, was the capital of the Inca Empire until the Spanish invasion in the 16^th century. Rather than destroying the Inca structures, Spaniards preserved the basic foundations but built Baroque churches and other structures over the Inca ruins which makes an incredible architecture today. 

Streets of Cuzco

On our first day, we visited the San Pedro Markets, perfect place for a cheap lunch. We walked around San Blas area which is famous for its artisanal sellers. We met a lovely girl, Lucila from Argentina, who was selling her handmade notebooks and she shared useful tips on things to see in her country.

Later in the day, we had a meeting with the tour operator Xtreme Turbulencia where we booked the Inca Trail tour to Machu Picchu. We met our guide and he provided all the necessary information for the tour which was starting in 3 days. If you would like to experience the incredible Inca Trail, you need to reserve your spot minimum 3 to 4 months in advance due to government restrictions and high demand. According to Peruvian law, only guided tours are allowed do this hike. It is more expensive than other options but it was a fantastic experience.

Santo Domingo Church

During our three days in Cuzco we got prepared for the 3 night 4 day trek. We bought the needed items, such as rain ponchos, extra batteries, some snacks and toiletries. We also did a free walking tour which was entertaining. We discovered a small restaurant run by Alfonso Garcia. He is a chef trained in Lima and prepares amazing Peruvian and international dishes for a reasonable price. His restaurant is not listed online but I hope you can find him in San Blas area.

The Incredible Inca Trail

Our amazing group

We started the infamous Inca Trail in the early morning of October 24^th 2013. We got picked up from our hotel and drove to Ollantaytambo for a quick breakfast. In our group, there were 2 Argentineans, 2 Americans, three Danish, an Irish, a New Zealander and us. There were also 2 tour guides and 11 porters. About an hour later, we reached the kilometre 82 where the “Camino de Inka” starts. After passing through a check point, we started our 44 kilometre adventure over the next 4 days.

Inca Ruins 

The first day, we walked for 6 hours, mostly under the rain. There were lots of hills and it was a challenging hike. In the afternoon, Alex got very tired, so I had to carry both of our backpacks for a while. It was hard. Along the way, we witnessed amazing wildlife and impressive Inca ruins. We were in high spirits when we reached our camp-site for the night.

I have to admit that I have never camped in my life. The good thing about being part of an organised tour is that everything was set up when we reached the camp site. The porters who carry around 20 kilos on their shoulders, run pass us all the time to organise the camp site and prepare the meals. The food was amazing and plenty. Everything had to be carried from Cuzco, as there are no shops along the way. We developed a lot of respect for these strong guys, as it was hard enough for us just to walk the path even without the 20 kilos on our shoulders . It was a 5 star camping experience, where we just had to turn up at the camp site. After a fantastic dinner and a bonding chat with the group, we were ready to get some rest for the following day.

The second day of the trek was the hardest. We walked 15 kilometres and crossed the Dead Women’s Pass which is the highest point of the trail with 4,200 metres. The view from this pass was breath taking. Everybody in the group was feeling joyful when we reached the highest point. You could feel that the group was getting more and more connected with each step along the path. There was a lot of support and respect in the group. Everybody was delighted to have survived the most challenging day!

Day three was relatively easy apart from the rain. We saw amazing flora along the way, crossed the Inka Tunnel and visited the infamous Winayhuayna, another magnificent Inca ruin. Our guides provided historical information for each site we visited. One of the nicest moments of this place was seeing and touching the beautiful llamas. I spent almost an hour petting these incredible animals.

The dinner on day three was an emotional one. It was our last night together as a group. The porters would be leaving early in the morning to catch their train back to the town. We said goodbye to them and collected some tips to show our appreciation for these amazing men. After spending three full days together, our group became like a family.

We woke up very early on our last day and started to walk towards Machu Picchu with lots of excitement. When we arrived at the Sun Gate where we suppose to see Machu Picchu from a distance, we had a shock. We could not see anything due to the clouds and mist. What a disappointment after walking for 4 days. Our guides tried to cheer us up, stating that weather can change any moment. Indeed it did. We had a massive rain for three hours while we were visiting Machu Picchu as part of the guided tour. After the visit, we were given the option to stay longer if we wanted. We decided to stay more time in this sacred land of Inca. Thankfully, half an hour later, the sun came up and we were able to witness the magnificence of this hidden city. It was stunning!

Machu Picchu (Picture by Martin Larrivée)

After taking thousands of pictures, we took a bus to Aguas Calientes where our group met up for one last time. It was hard to say goodbye and emotions were running high. We exchanged email addresses and became Facebook friends and said goodbye for one last time.

Leaving Aguas Calientes was great. It is very touristy and inauthentic village. I don’t suggest to spend time there. We took the train back to Ollantaytambo in the afternoon, which is a typical indigenous village in the Sacred Valley. Our friend Marian was volunteering in a lodge there, so we got the chance to see her one more time. She gave us good tips on things to do and we decided to do a hike together in the following days. 

The next day, we visited Moray ruins and Maras salt mines. On our way to the ruins we met another traveller, Catherine from Sydney. We hired a taxi together as it is really hard to get a local bus to both places. Meeting her was great and brought back memories from our time in Sydney.

Maras Salt Mines(Picture by Martin  Larrivée)

Moray agricultural terraces were incredible. It was an Incan agricultural laboratory that was likely used to cultivate resistant varieties of plants. This site resembles a Greek amphitheatre and is visually stunning.

Our next stop was the Salt Mines of Maras which consist of a huge number of salt evaporation ponds which have been used since pre-Inca times. You can walk around the ponds and watch workers extract salt. Such a unique experience!

Our taxi driver dropped us back at Ollantaytambo village where Catherine decided to stay as well. There was a three day festival happening at that time. We were lucky to experience some of the traditional dances and folkloric music from Peru.

The next day, we went on a long hike with Marian and Catherine in the Sacred Valley. It was great to witness the energy of this beautiful land. 

After 4 beautiful days in Ollantaytambo, we caught a bus back to Cuzco with a quick stopover in Pisaq which is famous for its market. We were happy to get back to our little hostel where we could take a hot shower. Oh what a bliss!

Moray Agricultural Terraces (Picture by Martin  Larrivée)

We got back to Cuzco on Halloween and were surprised to see that all the Peruvians were dressed up and ready to party. We had a fantastic dinner at Alfonso’s restaurant. He offered to be our guide for the next day to visit Zona X and the Temple of the Moon. We rented some horses with Alfonso and made our way to visit this important energy centre.  You can see some amazing rock formations and visit these incredible caves. After the tour, we had our last lunch at Alfonso’s place. He prepared the traditional Peruvian ceviche which is a fish dish served with onions and lemon. It was divine. 

Leaving behind wonderful experiences and friends in Cuzco, we took a 20 hour bus ride back to Lima to catch a plane to the northern Peruvian town, Iquitos where we would attend a shamanic retreat to connect with the divine energy.