We arrived to Cuzco at 4 am in the morning and took a taxi to a bed & breakfast booked through Airbnb. To our surprise and disgust, it was a horrible, run down place. The
room stung but we had no other option to sleep there till the morning.
After a couple of hours of sleep, we started to walk around to find a better place to stay. Just down the road, we encountered a small hostel called EcoInca. Upon cancelling our booking through Airbnb, we ran out of that dingy establishment and moved to our new room. It felt so good!
Cuzco is a very touristy town, and there are a lot of accommodation options. Do a good research before you book a place to avoid nightmares!
After a couple of hours of sleep, we started to walk around to find a better place to stay. Just down the road, we encountered a small hostel called EcoInca. Upon cancelling our booking through Airbnb, we ran out of that dingy establishment and moved to our new room. It felt so good!
Cuzco is a very touristy town, and there are a lot of accommodation options. Do a good research before you book a place to avoid nightmares!
Cuzco, Unesco World Heritage listed city, was the capital of the Inca
Empire until the Spanish invasion in the 16th century. Rather than
destroying the Inca structures, Spaniards preserved the basic foundations but
built Baroque churches and other structures over the Inca ruins which makes an incredible architecture today.
On our first day, we visited the
San Pedro Markets, perfect place for a cheap lunch. We walked around San Blas area which is famous for its artisanal sellers. We met a lovely girl,
Lucila from Argentina, who was selling her handmade notebooks and she shared useful tips on things to see in
her country.
Streets of Cuzco |
Later in the day, we had a meeting
with the tour operator Xtreme Turbulencia where we booked the Inca Trail tour to Machu Picchu. We met our guide and he provided
all the necessary information for the tour which was starting in 3 days. If you
would like to experience the incredible Inca Trail, you need to reserve your spot minimum 3 to 4
months in advance due to government restrictions and high demand. According to Peruvian law, only guided tours are allowed do this hike. It is more expensive than
other options but it was a fantastic experience.
Santo Domingo Church |
During our three days in Cuzco we
got prepared for the 3 night 4 day trek. We bought the needed items, such as
rain ponchos, extra batteries, some snacks and toiletries. We also did a free walking tour which was entertaining. We
discovered a small restaurant run by Alfonso Garcia. He is a chef trained in
Lima and prepares amazing Peruvian and international dishes for a reasonable price. His restaurant is
not listed online but I hope you can find him in San Blas area.
The Incredible Inca Trail
We started the infamous Inca Trail
in the early morning of October 24th 2013. We got picked up from
our hotel and drove to Ollantaytambo for a quick breakfast. In our group, there were 2 Argentineans, 2 Americans, three Danish, an Irish, a New Zealander and us.
There were also 2 tour guides and 11 porters. About an hour later, we reached the
kilometre 82 where the “Camino de Inka” starts. After passing through a check
point, we started our 44 kilometre adventure over the next 4 days.
The Incredible Inca Trail
Our amazing group |
Inca Ruins |
I have to admit that I have never
camped in my life. The good thing about being part of an organised tour is that
everything was set up when we reached the camp site. The porters who carry
around 20 kilos on their shoulders, run pass us all the time to organise the camp site and prepare the meals. The food was amazing and plenty. Everything had to be carried from
Cuzco, as there are no shops along the way. We developed a lot of respect for
these strong guys, as it was hard enough for us just to walk the path even without the 20 kilos on our shoulders . It
was a 5 star camping experience, where we just had to turn up at the camp site. After
a fantastic dinner and a bonding chat with the group, we were ready to get some
rest for the following day.
The second day of the trek was the
hardest. We walked 15 kilometres and crossed the Dead Women’s Pass which is the
highest point of the trail with 4,200 metres. The view from this pass was
breath taking. Everybody in the group was feeling joyful when we reached the
highest point. You could feel that the group was getting more and more connected
with each step along the path. There was a lot of support and respect in the
group. Everybody was delighted to have survived the most challenging day!
Day three was relatively easy apart
from the rain. We saw amazing flora along the way, crossed the Inka
Tunnel and visited the infamous Winayhuayna, another magnificent Inca
ruin. Our guides provided historical information for each site we visited. One
of the nicest moments of this place was seeing and touching the beautiful
llamas. I spent almost an hour petting these incredible animals.
The dinner on day three was an
emotional one. It was our last night together as a group. The porters would be
leaving early in the morning to catch their train back to the town. We said
goodbye to them and collected some tips to show our appreciation for these
amazing men. After spending three full days together, our group became like a
family.
We woke up very early on our last
day and started to walk towards Machu Picchu with lots of excitement. When we
arrived at the Sun Gate where we suppose to see Machu Picchu from a distance,
we had a shock. We could not see anything due to the clouds and mist. What a
disappointment after walking for 4 days. Our guides tried to cheer us up,
stating that weather can change any moment. Indeed it did. We had a massive
rain for three hours while we were visiting Machu Picchu as part of the guided
tour. After the visit, we were given the option to stay longer if we wanted. We
decided to stay more time in this sacred land of Inca. Thankfully, half an hour
later, the sun came up and we were able to witness the magnificence of this
hidden city. It was stunning!
Machu Picchu (Picture by Martin Larrivée) |
After taking thousands of pictures,
we took a bus to Aguas Calientes where our group met up for one last time. It
was hard to say goodbye and emotions were running high. We exchanged email
addresses and became Facebook friends and said goodbye for one last time.
Leaving Aguas Calientes was great.
It is very touristy and inauthentic village. I don’t suggest to spend time
there. We took the train back to Ollantaytambo in the afternoon, which is a
typical indigenous village in the Sacred Valley. Our friend Marian was
volunteering in a lodge there, so we got the chance to see her one more time.
She gave us good tips on things to do and we decided to do a hike together in
the following days.
The next day, we visited Moray
ruins and Maras salt mines. On our way to the ruins we met another traveller, Catherine
from Sydney. We hired a taxi together as it is really hard to get a local bus
to both places. Meeting her was great and brought back memories from our time
in Sydney.
Moray agricultural terraces were
incredible. It was an Incan agricultural laboratory that was likely used to
cultivate resistant varieties of plants. This site resembles a Greek
amphitheatre and is visually stunning.
Maras Salt Mines(Picture by Martin Larrivée) |
Our next stop was the Salt Mines of
Maras which consist of a huge number of salt evaporation ponds which have been
used since pre-Inca times. You can walk around the ponds and watch workers
extract salt. Such a unique experience!
Our taxi driver dropped us back at
Ollantaytambo village where Catherine decided to stay as well. There was a
three day festival happening at that time. We were lucky to experience some of
the traditional dances and folkloric music from Peru.
The next day, we went on a long
hike with Marian and Catherine in the Sacred Valley. It was great to witness
the energy of this beautiful land.
After 4 beautiful days in
Ollantaytambo, we caught a bus back to Cuzco with a quick stopover in Pisaq
which is famous for its market. We were happy to get back to our little hostel
where we could take a hot shower. Oh what a bliss!
Moray Agricultural Terraces (Picture by Martin Larrivée) |
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